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Friday, June 29, 2018

Across the bridge to Mannheim

"The loveliest thing about Ludwigshafen is the view across the river of Mannheim!" We heard this on the first day in LU and many times thereafter.  LU and MA are separated by the Rhein and there is a lot of traffic between them, even though they are in different states.



We usually have a 10 minute streetcar ride, but we've also walked it numerous times.


The Watertower is a key landmark of Mannheim.




Mannheim has lots of lovely places and the university is in the most beautiful old castle, which was actually built to house a university so long ago,  as well as the usual royal rooms.



The Jesuit church was destroyed in the last days of the bombing of Mannheim.  It took decades to rebuild - this amazing example of Baroque architecture.  The story goes that when the elector built his great residence in Mannheim, the pope said that he then had to build a church at least as glorious or he'd feel the wrath of Rome. So he built this. 



 People seem to have a sense of humor.  Can you see what was added to the sign?

The Mannheim Modern Art Museum is a fun place.  Instead of following art chronologically from room to room and century to century, they've decided to display art in a very artsy way, but not by year.










In a number of art museums like in this one, there is a section of reclaimed artwork with careful notations on the provenance of the pieces.  Nazis confiscated and in some cases destroyed "degenerate art".  


 Three Animals, Franz Marc 1912.  Bought by this museum 1919. Confiscated 1937. Restituted 1948.



Fastnacht, Max Beckman 1925.  Purchased 1927.  Confiscated 1937.  Repurchased 1950.


There is a variety of art outside museums.  Above a dock worker.

The peace angel memorial to all the people who suffered under National Socialism and WWII.


A statue to a small man whom everyone knew.



Also have amazing spray painting art on buildings.



Each building is unique and the artists came from around the world.



A huge statue which traveled around in the 1800's and no one would buy it, so Mannheim was stuck with it.  They kept it underground during the bombing of WWII.



Lots of modern stores where you can find anything.




I'll end with a quirky place like this Hexenhaus, a veritable witch's house which serves yummy Schnitzel!

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